The Art & History

5 Authentic Chikankari Stitches Every Handloom Lover Should Know

Lakhnavi Chikankari isn't just clothing—it is centuries of art, culture, and patient craftsmanship woven into thread. Originating in the royal courts of Awadh, authentic Chikankari relies on over 32 distinct stitch techniques, each giving a unique dimension to the fabric.

As direct manufacturers based in Lucknow for over two decades, we at Najahat believe that knowing your craft makes wearing it even more special. Here are 5 signature stitches that define genuine Chikankari:

1. Bakhiya (Shadow Work) : Perhaps the most iconic technique, Bakhiya is embroidered from the reverse side of transparent or semi-transparent fabric. This creates a soft, shadowed silhouette of the motif on the front, bordered by fine herringbone stitches.

2. Phanda (Knot Stitch) : Tiny, precise, and structural, Phanda stitches create small millet-shaped knots. They are often used to form the center of flowers or cluster together to form delicate leafy patterns.

3. Ghasspatti (Grass Stitch) : Inspired by nature, Ghasspatti forms delicate grass-like V-shaped leaves. Artisan fingers shape the threads into sharp, clean leaf motifs with a subtle raised texture.

4. Tepchi (Running Stitch) : A simple yet elegant long-running stitch, Tepchi is often used to outline motifs or create subtle geometric patterns. It forms the foundation for many intricate designs.

5. Murri (Rice Grain Stitch) : Similar to Phanda, Murri is a French-knot style stitch shaped explicitly like tiny grains of rice. It requires immense precision and is usually seen in high-end, premium handcrafting.

The Najahat Touch

Machine imitations might replicate the patterns, but they can never match the soul and texture of hand-worked Phanda or Bakhiya. When you wear a piece from Najahat, you carry the legacy of Lucknow's master artisans.